September 13, 2004

澎湖二崁歲時記

　　剛開始學拍照的時候，我經常揹著相機在二崁村落走動。印象中的二崁村小得有點落寞，尤其到了寒冷的冬季，幾乎看不到人的活動。當時著名的二崁陳家大厝在我心目中，幾乎就等於一整個二崁聚落，古厝以外的村落房舍、老古園宅、綠草坡地和羊群，都只是當時路過順道看看的風景。

　　1989年，二崁村在澎湖六個民俗村預定地中，被選定成為澎湖唯一的聚落保存地，1995年開始大興土木。整個二崁脫胎換骨的蛻變過程，恰巧都在我外出工作期間進行。當我再回到二崁，村內的古厝已煥然一新，灰黝黝的老古石聚落換上了雪白色清亮的外貌，房厝內的陳設也規劃得更符合現代化生活；四周的土地開始禁建了，許許多多文化工作者也熱情投入地方文化研究。

　　錯過了親眼目睹二崁的蛻變跡痕，雖然很懊惱，但村落終究是改變了。

　　再度回到二崁，我開始試著不再像個觀光客般匆匆路過，也不再像個狩獵者般迅速獵取鏡頭；我漸漸懂得尾隨二崁人的腳步，在春雨降臨之際，踏著鬆軟的泥土，去看看土豆、蕃薯是如何下種的；在夏日烈陽下，跟隨老人駕著竹筏出海，探看定置網裡的漁獲；在秋風初起的季節，鑽進褐綠色的老古園裡，看看土豆、蕃薯的收成；在寒冬歲末的香火裡，感受謝神祭祖的溫馨。

　　擅於說故事的老人家，也以精采的西嶼腔為我傳述動人的二崁故事。鎮符、土地公生、清明、五月節、七月半、邱王公生、冬至日，在一年又一年香火繚繞的氛圍裡，二崁人的四季生活紀事已在我心中逐漸明朗清晰。


　　回返家鄉這些年來，二崁幾乎已成了我的另一個故鄉。無論是炎熱的夏季或凜冽的冬季，每次大清早從馬公出發，經過沙港、中屯，彎過瓦硐，繞過大半個島嶼轉過通樑，騎車在跨海大橋上奔馳行進間，遠眺朦朧飄邈的馬公市時，常常問自己，究竟為什麼會如此心甘情願走這麼長遠的二崁路？

　　我想，是那高低起伏，如漁翁島地形般迷人的西嶼腔調以及散發在二崁人身上，那溫溫熱熱的人情味和精彩的生活故事，還有在現代化生活中，一直維繫相傳的海島信仰傳統，一次又一次催促我走上二崁路。

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